​Primroses (Primula 'Danova') A proven reliable grower, the Danova primrose is known for large flowers with bold colors on compact, uniform plants that bloom in late winter. They come in a variety of colors from white, yellow, red, pink, blue and purples with some being sweetly fragrant flowers that rise amid textured foliage. Ht 4-6in, Zone 4 semi-evergreen, often sold as an “annual” or seasonal color plant during winter.

​Ranunculus (Persian Buttercup) These are compact varieties that flourishes at cool temperatures. Papery petals layered on top of another to form yellow, pink, blue, white or red flowers 2-3in. across. Absolutely gorgeous and great for cut flowers. Ht. 10in. Zone 8

Bulbs-Crocus, Snowdrops, Dwarf Iris, Hyacinth &

Grape Hyacinths (Muscari 'Big Smile') Tight heads of small, bell-shaped blue flowers rimmed in white on an erect stem. They multiply quickly to give good color in spring. Full sun to pt. shade, Ht. 10in, Zone 4
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 Later- Daffodils and Tulips usually late February through March.
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​1. Take Your Plant out of its Current Container. This maybe easy or more difficult depending upon how root bound the plant is currently. I hold on the plant itself while I remove the pot carefully not to break branches. If the pot will not come off you may half to cut the pot (if possible), also try pushing on the sides of the pots to loosen roots and remove any roots growing out of the holes on the bottom of the pot.
2. Loosen Roots. Gently loosen root ball with your hands or “score” roots by making several 1-2” slashes into the root mass, if severely “pot bound”. This allows the roots to grow away from the original ball and into the soil instead of continuing coiling and taking longer to establish.    

​3. Choosing Your New Pot. Choose a pot that is a size or two bigger than the pot size it is currently in. You do not want a pot too large unless you are planning to add other plants in the container. The pot should have holes in it for good drainage and can be made of plastic, terra cotta (not frost proof), ceramic or whichever you choose.
4. Add Soil & Fertilizer into New Pot. Add organic potting Soil (G&B) about halfway into the container. Add organic Starter or All-Purpose fertilizer (G&B) into the soil and mix well- see package directions for exact amount to add- about ¼ cup per 1’ of tree high. Then add your tree into the pot and center in place. Add potting soil around the root mass, packing it in and completely covering the roots. Make sure the root ball isn’t planted to high- there should be a 1-3” inches of space below the rim of the pot- allowing for easier watering.
​Should you add gravel or rocks on the bottom of the container? Some experts say Yes, other say No. I usually do if I am planting in a large container, ceramic, or clay outdoor pottery. 

5. Water the Plant. Then we can water the plant, enough so that the water is draining out of the holes from the bottom. Some soil may float, just press it down. You can add mulch if you want or add lava rock or pebbles if desired. Olives like more basic to neutral soil and could benefit from crushed oyster shells or eggshells as a mulch. Then water when needed, maybe 1-2 times per week or more during the summer. Check daily during warmer weather. Do not keep containers too wet or too dry.

6. Fertilize with Organics. Use granular organic fertilizers 2-3 times a year by scratching into soil then covering or adding new soil over the fertilizer. Organics last longer in the soil and will not burn plants. You can use a liquid fertilizer if desired, but you will need to apply it more often when you water and lacks beneficial soil microbes present in granular fertilizers. Please do Not Use Miracle Grow or other chemical fertilizers. They ruin the soil and contain many heavy metals not good for edible plants.  
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7. Prune and Maintain. Prune during the warmer months, late spring or again in early fall (at least 6 weeks before first frost so the plant is hardened off for winter). If your plant is indoors or in a greenhouse, you can prune it almost anytime it needs it. Remember the 1/3 Rule. Prune About 1/3 of the height and size of your plant at one time- too aggressive pruning causes problems and may ruin your trees. I like to start by remove dead branches and thin out crossing branches. Then I prune the outer edges, lightly and sparingly at first, taking a minute to examine the shape. Then you can always prune more and shape to a natural form or a more creative way like topiaries or bonsai.
Repot Your Plant Again or Plant in the Ground when it out grows its current container, yearly or when needed depending upon how fast it grows.
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This example can be applied for many other types of trees and shrubs. Acid lovers use an acid potting mix or fertilizer. The images I used for this are from various plants and not an actual “olive tree” but the ideas and concepts are similar. I grow olive relatives in my garden, primarily Silverberry- Elaeagnus ‘Olive Martini’- which is a large evergreen shrub with attractive variegated foliage, fragrant flowers, and edible berries (I save them for wildlife).       

​Garlic is one of the easiest and most rewarding crops for gardeners to grow requiring little care.  There are two main types of garlic: hardneck and softneck. The “neck” refers to the flower stalk that grows from the garlic bulb. Each type has many different varieties to choose from.
Hardneck garlic varieties have fewer cloves per head and are typically smaller. Stalk grows into a scape in spring, which should be cut off so plant puts its energy into the bulb. Cook your edible Garlic scapes.
Softneck garlic varieties typically found in a grocery store. Heads are larger, with more cloves,  longer shelf life. Hardneck varieties are better where winters are harsh, softnecks better in milder climates.

​Planting and Growing Garlic Garlic is the last crop planted in the fall about 4 weeks before the ground freezes and can also be planted in January or February. Garlic likes rich, loose soil. Prepare the bed before planting by raking a couple inches of compost and organic fertilizer like bone meal or “starter” into the top few inches of soil. A few days before planting, separate seed heads into individual cloves – there is no need to peel. Each clove will grow into a whole new head.
Push the cloves about 2” into the ground, blunt end down, with 4” between each clove. Rows should be spaced 8”-12” apart. After planting, water well. A couple weeks after planting, mulch with a 4 to 6 inch layer of straw or shredded leaves. The mulch not only protects the garlic from freezing temperatures, but it also holds in moisture and cuts down on weeds. Companion Plants: Things That Grow Well with Garlic: Peppers, Tomatoes, Carrots, Beets

Harvesting and Curing Garlic Garlic takes 9 months to be ready for harvest in early to mid-summer, when about ⅓ of the leaves have died. Loosen the soil with a large garden fork and gently pull up the heads.

          Plant in Fall (Sept-Nov) = Harvest in mid-Summer (June-Aug)
          Plant in Winter (Jan/Feb) = Harvest in Fall (Oct/Nov)

Cure garlic for a few weeks in a warm, dry place with good airflow: a shed or covered porch is ideal. Garlic can be hung from rafters or laid out on a rack. Once cured, brush off the dirt and trim the stems. Store garlic long term in a mesh bag, cardboard box, or other breathable containers to enjoy all winter.
Killarney Reds- Hardneck- strong and nutty flavor, does well in wet climates.
Musik- Hardneck- rich, aromatic, full flavored. One of the best and most popular varieties. 
Nootka Rose- Softneck- Heirloom- rich, strong flavor, rose streaked bulbs. From Puget Sound area. Good for braiding and does well in most climates. Medium head has many cloves.
Svea- Hardneck- rich & complex, purple marble stripes. Skin easy to peel. Does well in harsh climates.
Reference:  https://www.kellogggarden.com/blog/growing/growing-harvesting-and-preserving-garlic/

Looking for some projects to do this summer? Here are some ideas to help utilize your gardens bounty.
Here is a collection of recipes I hope you enjoy making, vary them as you wish and to fit your pallet.

Herbal Vinegars: Use them in vinaigarrete salad dressings, sauces or marinades. They also are a digestive aid.
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Four Spice Vinegar- Grind 1 tsp Coriander, Peppercorns & dried Chili and 2 tsp Dill or Fennel seeds.Add to heated vinegar, allow to cool. Next day, strain, then store in a cool place.
Alternative- add herbs into vinegar. Let sit in a cool dark place. Strain in 2-3 weeks, refrigerate.   
Use other herbs as substitutes: Bay, Marjoram, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage & Thyme.
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Herbal Infused Oils- Infuse herbs into olive, grapeseed, sunflower or other edible oil. Simmer on low, covered for several hours. Strain and refrigerate.
​Alternative- add herbs into a jar with oil. Leave on a window sill for 2-3 weeks (warm place). Strain and refrigerate. Use on salads or ingredient for other recipes. 
Use Herbal Oils in dressings, flavor vegetables, meats and even for skin care or fragrance.
There are many herbs you can use for flavored oils: Basil, Bay, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Garlic, Peppers & Peppercorns, Rosemary, Sage, and Thyme. You can also make floral oils for baths or add essential oils for perfume: Calendula, Chamomile, Violets & Pansies, Roses and Yarrow 

Herbal Simple Syrups: Use these syrups to flavor Teas, Cocktails or use in your Humingbird Feeders. You can use Flowers or Berries- Carnation, Elderberry, Hibiscus, Lavender and Rose.
​Pink Syrup
Need: 1lb Red or Pink Carnation, Hibiscus, Rose & Peony petals, 5 cups water, 12 Cloves and 1lb sugar.
Prepare: Combine petals, clove and water in a pan. Cover and simmer for 5-6 hours. Strain liquid. For every 2 ½ cups use 1lb sugar, simmer until sugar melts and becomes a syrup. Cool, then Store in a cool place. 

As we deal with our countries current situation, it's good to get back to the basics and make your own staples at home. These recipes are ideas to spark inspriration to experiement with your family and friends.
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There will be more to comein the coming weeks. If you have a question about using herbs from your garden email me at: Thepondpad@gmail.com 
I also teaching gardening classes, write eBooks and consult online www.HerbalElements.net  

​Lady Beetle Care

1. Release lady beetles at dusk or early evening. Lady beetles will fly away almost immediately if released during the heat of the day or where the sun is shining, so wait until evening to release them. Spray a fine mist of water on the plants before the release. Giving beetles a drink may keep them around longer. Place beetles at the base of plants or in the crotches of low branches. Lady beetles will crawl higher into the plant in search of aphids. Once lady beetles begin to fly, they are likely to fly a substantial distance, often outside the boundaries of your garden. Do not release lady beetles on plants that have been sprayed with insecticides as residues from most insecticides are likely to kill the beetles. However, insecticidal soaps and oils, once dry, will not leave toxic residues.
2. They need a good supply of aphids. There is no point in releasing them on plants with few aphids. Lady beetles are voracious aphid feeders and an adult beetle will eat 50 or more aphids a day. The convergent lady beetle, which is the species sold for release, feeds almost entirely on aphids and will not remain on plants with low aphid populations and will not control other garden pests.
3. Expect lady beetles to fly away in a few days. Even when released with care, lady beetles will fly away within a few days. Lady beetles are unlikely to lay eggs on the plants they are released on. If aphids return a week or two later, gardeners will need to release more lady beetles to help increase the local population.

Derived from: https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=13933

Creating a Hummingbird Garden by using a diversity of plantings and garden techniques to attract them to your garden. Hummingbirds are important pollinators as well as adding entertainment and meaning to your landscape.

4 steps

1.Plant nectar and pollen rich flowers- Provide a variety of heights of plants so they meander while feeding. Hummingbirds like all colors- primarily brighter colored and typically tubular in shape. See examples below.​

As our garden awakens, so do we in a way, by embracing the warmth and sunshine that spring brings to us all. Turn off the TV, put down your phone, stop watching the news and get outside and work in the garden. There are a lot of things that can be done now, and then again in early May to achieve the garden of your dreams. While you work and create outdoors, take advantage of the fresh air and embrace your yards energy. Here are some gardening tips for now, some for later, plus a blooming by the seasons guide.

• Make Your Spring Checklist. Look around and take note of the things you need to do and when you plan to do this. Weeding, Mulching Fertilizing, Planting, Amending or Setting up Irrigation and any other project you plan to do this year.   Get a journal, notebook or gardening App to record this info. Checklist and Schedule.
• Decide Your Focus. What are your goals? What you want visual appeal- lawns, flowers, ornamental plants, water feature; or a more functional garden- food, herb & medicine production, attracting pollinators, wildlife. Maybe a combination of the two? Whatever you decide, make a list of plants you want to grow. Look online at garden images or visit Zenith Holland for ideas. Some Plants are only available Seasonally.   
• Food Production- There are many Fruits & Veggies you can grow in the garden, raised beds or in containers. Fruit Trees- Apples, Pears, Asian Pears, Cherries, Plums, Apricots, Nectarines & Peaches- Trees May need a Pollinator (two trees or a combo tree) Berries- Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Marionberry, Gooseberry & Blueberry. Cool Season Veggies vs. Warm Seasoned Veggies- see below.

• Start a Veggie Garden- Spring & Fall!   Cool Season Veggies-there are a bunch- Broccoli, Kohlrabi, Brussels & Cauliflower; Cabbage & Kale; Lettuce, Chard & Spinach; Onions & Leeks; Peas, Radish, Rutabaga, Turnips & Carrots, Peas, Potatoes Asparagus & Garlic (usually planted in spring),. Warm Season Veggies- Tomatoes, Peppers, Tomatillos, Eggplant, Melons, Squashes, Cucumbers, Beans & Green Beans.
• Apply Organics- Apply G&B Fertilizers, then add Mulch like compost or other organic soil amendments 1-3” deep. This helps protect your plants roots from winter damage. Place a thick layer of newspaper or cardboard prior to mulch to choke out weeds.
• Transplant or Repot- Transplant or move plants now before it gets too hot. Repot plants that have over grown their containers.

    Blooms Throughout the Seasons:
Winter & Spring Blooming Bulbs (Feb-April)- Crocus, Daffodils, Hyacinths, Iris, Snowdrops, Tulips. 
Cool Season Annuals (Sept-May)- Calendula, Pansies & Violets (johnnie jump-ups), Primroses, Snapdragons
Spring Blooming Shrubs & Trees- Flowering Ornamental: Cherries, Plums & Crabapples, Dogwoods, Lilacs, Weigela, Azaleas & Rhododendrons, Mountain Laurel, Pieris
Summer Blooming Bulbs (some hardy, some annual)- Crocosmia, Dahlia (tender), Elephant Ears (A), Freesia (A), Iris, Peony
Summer Blooming Shrubs- Butterfly Bush, Clethra, Crape Myrtle, Hydrangeas, Roses
Warm Season Annuals (May-October+)- Fuchsia (some are perennial), Geraniums, Impatiens, Petunias, Marigolds, Verbena (some are perennial), Zinnia
Fall Annuals and Colorful Perennials- Add into pots, borders & beds- Pansies & Violas; Mums & Asters; Cabbage & Kale and Fall Color Vines (Purple Grape, Silver Lace Vine, Virginia Creeper) & Shrubs (Dogwood, Spirea & Blueberries), Evergreen Perennials (Heuchera, Tiarella & Hellebores), Broad Leaf (Euonymus, Azaleas & Lonicera) & Conifers.
Late fall -Winter-Early Spring- Blooming Shrubs- Camellias, Current, Daphne (winter), Forsythia, Quince, Sweet Box, Viburnum (some), Witch Hazel
Plants with Berries- Beauty Berry, Blueberries & Evergreen Huckleberries, Cotoneaster, Holly, Juniper, Mondo Grass, Nandina, St. John’s wort, Viburnum (some), Wintergreen

     Planting Schedule:
January & February: Plant Cool Season Annuals & Veggie Seeds inside. Plant hardy trees, shrubs, perennials, vines and grasses- weather permitting. Plant Bare root fruits and berries.
March & April: Plant Cool Annual Starts & Veggie Starts outside, weather permitting. Plant hardy trees, shrubs, perennials, vines and grasses.  Plant Warm Season Annuals & Veggie Seeds inside (Feb-April) read directions for plant timing to put outdoors.
May: Plant Warm Season Annual Starts, Veggie Starts and Hanging Baskets outside, weather permitting. Plant hardy trees, shrubs, perennials, vines and grasses. Plant Summer Blooming Bulbs (April – June) see directions on package.
June: Put houseplants outside in the shade on porch or other protected areas for summer-repot and fertilize as needed. Direct Sow Seeds (late May-early June)
July & August: Plant Warm Season Annual Starts- replace dead or tired plants from baskets. Start Fall Blooming Annuals & Cool Season Veggies- in pots or direct sow into ground/beds.
September: Plan Your Fall & Late Winter Tasks. Plant Fall Crops Starts, Fall pots & Hardy Plants. Bring indoors houseplants & tropicals. Lawn Care- Aerate, Thatch (if needed), Sod/Seed, Fertilize. Plant Spring Blooming Bulbs (Aug- Oct). Direct Sow Root Veggies Seeds.
October: Plant Fall Crop Starts, Hardy Plants. Rake Leaves, clean plants. Mulch.
November: Irrigation winterized (or in October). Cover spigots. Plants should all be winterized.
December: Decorate for holidays. Feed the birds.

If you have questions, Ask Kerri at: thepondpad@gmail.com  

​ We at Zenith Holland hope this  "Recipe for Seed Gardening" will help you with a great project for kids to get them excited about growing plants and creating their own gardens. 
Ingredients: 

• 1 paper cup
• Soil – seed starting or fluffy mix, we like G&B
• Seeds
• Fertilizer- organic is best, we like G&B
• Pencil
• Teaspoon
• Light and water

 
Directions:

1. Punch holes in the bottom of a plastic or paper cup* 
2. Fill cup 1/2 full of soil 
3. Sprinkle a pinch of fertilizer 
4. Using pencil poke 3 holes in soil 
5. Add seeds into the holes
6. Sprinkle soil over seeds
7. Using spoon drizzle a small amount of water (or use a spray bottle)
8. Place in sunny window

 
     Always be sure to read your seed packet first for best results.
Some Tips: Soil should remain moist, not soggy. As plants grow, they may need to be transplanted into a larger container or acclimated to the outdoors then planted into the garden. * Try using egg cartons, plastic muffin or produce containers and other recycled items to sprout your seeds. Use your imagination and have fun with it!  

This was a collaboration written by Eileen Hoffman of Zenith Holland. Stop in and ask to Eileen about this project and choosing seeds. Call or Email for further details.  

​Helleborus Variety Frostkiss® Anna's Red has beautiful outward-facing, deep burgundy red single flowers with creamy stamens and red stems on a backdrop of marbled leaves. Prefers moist soil enriched with leaf mold or compost, yet drought tolerant once established. Mulch in fall for winter protection. Exposure: Part to Full Shade. Height 15-24" Spread 24”. Deer Resistant.

 Helleborus foetidus is a carefree perennial noted for its bell-shaped, pale green flowers that open in mid-November and last until late spring. Its lacy, narrow leaves remains dark, rich green year-round.

​This striking plant is easy to grow and is drought tolerant once established. The unpleasant odor of the crushed leaves will explain their other common name, “stinking hellebore”. They have a clumping habit with a mature size of about 1 - 3 ft. tall and wide. Exposure Part to Full Shade. Hardy in Zones: 5 to 8.

Stop in and see are selection of Hellebores or ask us more about planting combinations, cultural care and pest control methods!
#ZenithHollandNursery
#GrowingHellebores
 
References:
https://www.skagitgardens.com/skagit_products/helleborus-frostkiss-annas-red/
https://www.plantdelights.com/products/helleborus-iburgensis-cheryls-shine-ppaf
https://www.perennials.com/plants/helleborus-ballardiae-hgc-cinnamon-snow.html
https://www.skagitgardens.com/skagit_products/helleborus-hgc-ice-n-roses-red/
https://www.skagitgardens.com/skagit_products/helleborus-ivory-prince/
https://www.skagitgardens.com/skagit_products/helleborus-hgc-jacob/
https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-grow-stinking-hellebore-4125825

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