Early spring is a great time to save some money by purchasing plants "bare root" which means the plant is sold without soil. You need to plant this yourself in the ground or container. Don't let this intimidate you! It's not that hard, just follow these instructions.

​What You Need to plant Your Potted Flowers:

• Shovel or Hand Trowel
• Planting Compost or other Soil Amendment
• G&B Starter Organic Fertilizer
• Gloves & optional Safety- Eye Protection, Garden Clothes
• Water from the Hose or can with water
• Stakes, Supports (optional)
• Your Plants!

Follow these directions:
1.  Dig a Hole as Deep as the Roots  or Root Ball is Tall, and Twice as Wide. If you did deeper than that, the roots can sink, causing the plant to be too deep covering the crown.  If you don’t dig twice as wide, the plant may be stunted or make it harder to grow laterally.
2.  Place Plants Roots into Hole. If Bare Root: Make a Mound with Soil, Fan Roots Symmetrically on Mound.  Potted: Take Plant out of Pot, Loosen Roots,  Add Root Ball into Hole. Make Sure Plant is Upright & Straight, not leaning or crooked.  
3. Add G&B Starter Fertilizer (see directions or use approximately ½ cup per 1’ of plant height) with 1/2 Organic Planting Compost and ½ Native Soil. Mix Well, add more soil if needed. Don’t cover the crown, graft junction or trunk apex.
4. Tamp Soil, Add Mulch or Top Dress with Compost. Water in well. Make sure plant is firmly in the ground & is visually appropriate. Add Stake Supports if desired.  
   

How to grow Sumptuous Strawberries, one of the easiest and most popular fruit grown in US gardens.
1. Choose Your Varieties- There are 2 main types, See below.*
2. Location- full sun to Part-Sun in well-draining, slightly acid soil rich in organic matter.
3. Space- plants 2’ apart in rows or mounds 3-4’ apart. Allow runners to spread and fill in gaps. They can also be planted in ornamental beds as a ground cover. Some do well in containers or hanging baskets.
4. Planting & Fertilizing- Bare root- soak for up to an hour or so in water to hydrate roots. Trim roots with clean tools to 4-5” long. Dig your hole, add organic starter fertilizer. Plant strawberries so the crown is above soil surface and completely cover the roots with planting compost or other organic soil amendment. If planting a plant potted with soil, make sure you do not plant too deep or too shallow- keep at level it is in the pot. Water well and keep moist until well established. Replant new additions every 3 years or so when plant vigor starts to decline. Add Organic Fertilizer Spring and Fall, top dress with mulch to conserve moisture, choke weeds and enrich soil matter.    
5. Pruning- first year plants- do not allow to fruit the first June to establish good roots. Most of our strawberries are old enough to fruit this year. Use G&B Fertilizer- Tomato, Herb & Veggie and Planting Compost or Acid Planting Mix to get plants well established.
*Two Types of Strawberries-
June or Summer Bearing- fruit heavy one crop in June.
Everbearing- are really two crop varieties- June & in Fall. Some considered Day Neutral, meaning that they continuously fruit throughout the season.  
Strawberries we carry:
Rainier- June Bearing- WA State release. Medium to large conical-shaped, quality, soft fruit.  Disease resistant & virus tolerant, tough plant. Vigorous grower with showy floppy leaves. Use flavorful berry for fresh eating, freezing, jams, jellies and sauces.
Tristar- Everbearing- Developed at Univ. of Maryland, released in 1982. Produces sweet, aromatic early spring crops of small to medium sized conical fruit. Berries have firm, glossy, deep red skin with solid flesh. Fall crop is heavier bearing elongated larger fruit.  Use for fresh eating, freezing, sauces or jams. Medium sized plants use for bed, borders, mounds, pots or hanging baskets. Produces fruit on unrooted runners. Disease resistant. 
Quinault Everbearing- Very popular, one of the largest strawberries- WA State release. Large, firm, deep-red berry with good flavor. Use for fresh eating, deserts and jams- not recommended for freezing. High yielding vigorous plants produce runners. Many be susceptible to mildew, avoid by allowing good aeration, in moist, yet well-draining soil. 

Growing Blueberries really isn’t that hard, provided that you give them the right conditions in order for them to thrive. Here are some suggestions:
Location & Soil- Choose a spot that receives full to part sun for 6-8 hours. Avoid high wind areas, Protect branches from heavy snow pack. Needs well-draining, Acidic Soil high in organic matter.    
Water- Likes regular water, especially during summer- to reduce heat stress and produce juicy fruit. 
Fertilizer- Use an Organic Acid Fertilizer, same one used for Rhodies, Azaleas, Heather, Camellias, PNW Natives & Ferns, etc.- we like G&B. Apply during initial planting, then 2-3 times during the growing season- Mid-March & May. Top dress or mulch with an acid planting mix to conserve moisture, choke out weeds and protect roots.
Planting- In early spring to early summer or fall, before or after extreme heat or below extreme freezing weather.  Space 4’ feet + apart, depending upon variety.  
Pruning- Allow your plants to grow and establish for at least 3 years before you prune. Do not let plants younger than 3 years bear fruit, this can kill your plant. Or purchase older plants that can bear fruit sooner. Established plants can be pruned as needed- goal is to promote growth of strong new growth, remove dead & crossing branches (thin) and remove older than 6-year-old canes. Use clean tools!
Disease- Blueberries are pretty easy care plants, provided you practice Right Plant, Right Place Rule;   Use  good organic acid fertilizers and soils; and Water adequately.  
 Types of Blueberries- There are many species of native blueberries and hybridized varieties bred for fruit taste, size, chilling hours and overall performance.  
1.Northern Highbush- (Vaccinium corymbosum) are the most widely planted blueberries in the Northern US & Canada- mostly the types we carry (see below). Usually upright, large shrubs up to 6’ tall or more. No. Highbush require a minimum of 800 chilling hours for proper dormancy. Self-fertile but planting 2 increases pollination*. 2. Southern Highbush (or Rabbit Eye) grow best in the SE US and coastal CA but can grow as far north as Seattle. Hybridized for heat tolerance and low winter chilling, use another So High Bush for a pollinator.
3. Half-high Blueberries cultivars are crosses of wild selections of No Highbush and 4. Lowbush (Native, ground cover or low growing blueberries). Half-highs are lower growing, compact shrubs with yields not quite as good as No Highbush, yet retain wild flavor from Lowbush parentage.
Chill Hours= is a measure of accumulated hours of temperatures below 45 deg. F in the dormant season. Chill Hours High 800-1000 (No Highbush, Half-High, Lowbush) chill hours Low 150-800 Hours (So Highbush)
Choosing Varieties. *Each is Self-Fertile, but planting 2 different varieties that bloom at the same time will increase fruit yields. So pick two of one ripening time, better yet 2 of each for long harvest season.
We carry the following mostly Northern Highbush, except where noted: Bluecrop (ms), Bluegold (ms), Blueray(ms), Chandler(mid-L,G), Darrow(L-G), Draper (ms), Duke ( E ), Earliblue(VE), Patriot(E-G), Pink Lemonade (mid-L), Pink Popcorn (early-mid)Spartan(E-G), Tophat (ms), Toro(ms-G) 
    E=early  ms= mid-season  mid-L=mid-late L=late G=giant berries (our selections may vary!)
Bluecrop (ms)- Large, light blue, firm & flavorful fruit that sweetens when fully ripe. Berries mid-July thru August. Fall foliage mix yellow, orange and red. Scarlet new wood and winter stem color.  For fresh eating, baking & sauces / syrups. Considered one of the best all around, very popular. Upright open bush 4-6’x 6’W. Grown Commercially. USDA 4-7
Bluegold (ms)- Bright white spring flowers produces heavy crops of sweet, flavorful, sky blue fruit. Compact rounded bush grows 4’ x 4’. For fresh eating, baking & sauces / syrups. Brilliant yellow fall foliage and yellow winter wood make this unusual at must have!  USDA 4-7
Blueray (ms)- Heavy producer of high quality, large powder blue berries with outstanding dessert flavor. Does well in hot summers or very cold winters. Rosy pink flowers turn bright white in full bloom. Burgundy fall color. Upright open bush 5’x 5’W. Old fashion favorite. USDA 4-7
Chandler(mid-L)- Giant fruit the size of a cherry with delicious flavor. Holds distinction of the world’s largest blueberry. Long ripening season, fresh picked fruit for over 6 weeks. Can pollinate other mid or late season blueberries. Vigorous bush with slightly spreading habit reaching 5-6’. USDA 4-7
Darrow (L)- “Blue-Ribbon” giant sized fruit are slightly flattened, light blue with delightful robust flavor. Vigorous shrub reaching 5-6’. May be one of the largest fruits, size of a half dollar. USDA 5-7
Draper (ms)- Large, crisp, light blue berry. Bright white spring flowers lead to mid-summer sweet fruit. Grows to 4-5’ tall & wide. USDA 5-7
Duke (E)- Medium to large, light blue berries with mild sweet flavor. Firm, attractive berry holds its fresh quality longer than most others. One of the heaviest most consistent producers (over 20 lbs per mature bush). Upright bush growing to 4-6’ tall and wide, branches may droop when ripe. Yellow-orange fall foliage.  USDA 4-7
Earliblue (VE)- Light blue, large, delicious and sweet flavored berries- the first to ripen. Upright bush with stout, crimson canes and large glossy green leaves. Avoid planting in frost pockets to protect flowers blooming in late spring. Grows 4-6’ x 6’ USDA 5-7
Patriot (E)- Selected by Univ. of Maine as best cold hardy that bears consistent crops of large sized, flavorful dark blue berries. Low growing to 4’ with dark green summer foliage and fiery orange fall colors. Preforms in a wider range of soils and can take wetter spot than most. USDA 3-7
Pink Lemonade (mid-L)- Pinkish-white summer flowers produce pale greenish berries that ripen to deep pink colored, pleasant flavored fruit. Leaves turn a blend of golden yellow to brilliant orange. Moderate grower to 4’-5’ tall and 5’ wide. USDA 4-8
Pink Popcorn (early-mid)- White spring flowers develop into a medium sized blush pink fruit with true blueberry flavor and aroma. Fresh eating, baking, syrups & sauces.Compact grower to 3-5’ tall & wide. USDA 4-8
Spartan (E)- One of the most attractive berry- quarter sized, light blue with a delicious tangy sweet flavor. Larger upright bush 5-6’ tall with glossy green leaves that turn orange and yellow in autumn. Prefers well drained, acid soil rich in organic matter. USDA 5-7
Tophat (ms)- Dwarf cultivar (cross No. Highbush with wild Lowbush) growing to 1.5’ x 1.5’ tall & wide. Plentiful, dainty white blooms in spring lead to pea sized light blue berries. Use as a low border or in pots. Can be used as a Bonsai. Fiery crimson fall foliage.  USDA 3-7
Toro (ms)- Produces full, heavy clusters of sky blue delectable berries. One of the most attractive ornamental shrubs-upright, compact habit 4’x4’ with hot pink flowers turning bright white contrasting with bronze colored spring foliage. Deep green summer foliage turns shades of scarlet in fall. USDA 4-7.

Blueberries are one of my favorite landscape plants.  Here are 4 reasons why
1. Tasty Fruit that is packed full of nutrients!
2. They are "all season" having some kind of showy appeal throughout the entire year. Spring flowers follow edible summer fruit, followed by festive fall foliage and bright colored winter stems.
​3. Easy to grow- in landscape, hedges, pots and containers. Plant in same acidic soil conditions as Camellias, Azaleas & Rhododendrons, Ferns, Conifers and Natives.  
4. Benefits wildlife. Is a pollinator attractor plant, plus the extra fruit you don't eat the birds and other critters will.
Most Blueberries are considered "self fertile" but growing two or more of the same bloom time will increase your fruit yields. See next blog on blueberry care, coming soon.