​Primroses (Primula 'Danova') A proven reliable grower, the Danova primrose is known for large flowers with bold colors on compact, uniform plants that bloom in late winter. They come in a variety of colors from white, yellow, red, pink, blue and purples with some being sweetly fragrant flowers that rise amid textured foliage. Ht 4-6in, Zone 4 semi-evergreen, often sold as an “annual” or seasonal color plant during winter.

​Ranunculus (Persian Buttercup) These are compact varieties that flourishes at cool temperatures. Papery petals layered on top of another to form yellow, pink, blue, white or red flowers 2-3in. across. Absolutely gorgeous and great for cut flowers. Ht. 10in. Zone 8

Bulbs-Crocus, Snowdrops, Dwarf Iris, Hyacinth &

Grape Hyacinths (Muscari 'Big Smile') Tight heads of small, bell-shaped blue flowers rimmed in white on an erect stem. They multiply quickly to give good color in spring. Full sun to pt. shade, Ht. 10in, Zone 4
​
 Later- Daffodils and Tulips usually late February through March.
​

​1. Take Your Plant out of its Current Container. This maybe easy or more difficult depending upon how root bound the plant is currently. I hold on the plant itself while I remove the pot carefully not to break branches. If the pot will not come off you may half to cut the pot (if possible), also try pushing on the sides of the pots to loosen roots and remove any roots growing out of the holes on the bottom of the pot.
2. Loosen Roots. Gently loosen root ball with your hands or “score” roots by making several 1-2” slashes into the root mass, if severely “pot bound”. This allows the roots to grow away from the original ball and into the soil instead of continuing coiling and taking longer to establish.    

​3. Choosing Your New Pot. Choose a pot that is a size or two bigger than the pot size it is currently in. You do not want a pot too large unless you are planning to add other plants in the container. The pot should have holes in it for good drainage and can be made of plastic, terra cotta (not frost proof), ceramic or whichever you choose.
4. Add Soil & Fertilizer into New Pot. Add organic potting Soil (G&B) about halfway into the container. Add organic Starter or All-Purpose fertilizer (G&B) into the soil and mix well- see package directions for exact amount to add- about ¼ cup per 1’ of tree high. Then add your tree into the pot and center in place. Add potting soil around the root mass, packing it in and completely covering the roots. Make sure the root ball isn’t planted to high- there should be a 1-3” inches of space below the rim of the pot- allowing for easier watering.
​Should you add gravel or rocks on the bottom of the container? Some experts say Yes, other say No. I usually do if I am planting in a large container, ceramic, or clay outdoor pottery. 

5. Water the Plant. Then we can water the plant, enough so that the water is draining out of the holes from the bottom. Some soil may float, just press it down. You can add mulch if you want or add lava rock or pebbles if desired. Olives like more basic to neutral soil and could benefit from crushed oyster shells or eggshells as a mulch. Then water when needed, maybe 1-2 times per week or more during the summer. Check daily during warmer weather. Do not keep containers too wet or too dry.

6. Fertilize with Organics. Use granular organic fertilizers 2-3 times a year by scratching into soil then covering or adding new soil over the fertilizer. Organics last longer in the soil and will not burn plants. You can use a liquid fertilizer if desired, but you will need to apply it more often when you water and lacks beneficial soil microbes present in granular fertilizers. Please do Not Use Miracle Grow or other chemical fertilizers. They ruin the soil and contain many heavy metals not good for edible plants.  
​   
7. Prune and Maintain. Prune during the warmer months, late spring or again in early fall (at least 6 weeks before first frost so the plant is hardened off for winter). If your plant is indoors or in a greenhouse, you can prune it almost anytime it needs it. Remember the 1/3 Rule. Prune About 1/3 of the height and size of your plant at one time- too aggressive pruning causes problems and may ruin your trees. I like to start by remove dead branches and thin out crossing branches. Then I prune the outer edges, lightly and sparingly at first, taking a minute to examine the shape. Then you can always prune more and shape to a natural form or a more creative way like topiaries or bonsai.
Repot Your Plant Again or Plant in the Ground when it out grows its current container, yearly or when needed depending upon how fast it grows.
​
This example can be applied for many other types of trees and shrubs. Acid lovers use an acid potting mix or fertilizer. The images I used for this are from various plants and not an actual “olive tree” but the ideas and concepts are similar. I grow olive relatives in my garden, primarily Silverberry- Elaeagnus ‘Olive Martini’- which is a large evergreen shrub with attractive variegated foliage, fragrant flowers, and edible berries (I save them for wildlife).